Where to Eat in Kedah: Catfish Curry, Teluk Kechai Laksa and Dining on a Boat
A Kedah food trail from Tanjung Dawai catfish curry and Sungai Petani western fare to breakfast in a two-storey house, paddy-side laksa at Teluk Kechai and riverboat dining at Sungai Derga.
Heading north but not sure where to eat? We started in Tanjung Dawai with gulai sembilang (catfish curry), cooked until it bubbles. The gravy is thick and best shared over rice with a big group. It is a must-order here.
In Sungai Petani, western food fans can try Galaxy X Cafe and Bistro, with an impressive menu at wallet-friendly prices and space for birthdays or events. For breakfast, Rumah Sarapan operates out of a converted two-storey house, serving classics such as lontong, roti telur goyang, curry noodles, kacang pool and nasi lemak. We also stopped at a village-style restaurant with old Nusantara décor, where diners sit cross-legged on the floor to enjoy authentic Malay home cooking.
No trip to Alor Setar is complete without Kedah laksa. We went to Zakaria Laksa Teluk Kechai for laksa beras (rice noodles in a fresh fish broth with laksa leaves and torch ginger flower), thick and fragrant. There is also ABC (shaved ice) and satay, perfect for an afternoon by the paddy fields. It sits on Jalan Kuala Kedah and, according to its listing, opens 12pm to 6pm and closes on Fridays.
Our last stop was Santai Di Sungai Derga (SDSD), about 5 km from Alor Setar town centre, where you can eat aboard a boat as it cruises along the Derga River.
Tips
- Teluk Kechai laksa is closed on Fridays and opens from noon, so plan an afternoon visit.
- Order catfish curry to share with plain rice.
- Get to Rumah Sarapan early before popular dishes sell out.
- Pair Teluk Kechai and Sungai Derga in one afternoon in Alor Setar.
- Address
- Kedah, Kedah