Nasi Berlauk Malam Sudin Kubis, Kota Bharu: Ikan Bekok & Daging Belengah

In Kelantan, nasi berlauk (rice with assorted dishes) is usually eaten in the morning or at lunchtime. Nasi Berlauk Malam Sudin Kubis breaks that habit by serving it from late afternoon until late at night, and the idea is now being copied around Kota Bharu. According to the owner, the shop has been viral for almost two years and still draws tourists from all over the country, including Sabah, Sarawak, Brunei and Singapore.

The best-known dish is ikan bekok, a river fish fried right in front of customers. The combination recommended by the owner is ikan bekok with gulai kawah (cauldron-cooked curry), daging belengah and vegetables in coconut gravy. Daging belengah, which is all the rage right now, is beef cut with fat marbled through. The gulai kawah is rich with the flavour of ginger.

To visitors from out of state who worry that Kelantanese food is too sweet, the owner insists the sugar in their dishes is moderate, just enough for flavour. We ourselves found the taste balanced and easy to enjoy.

The main shop is on Jalan Sultan Yahya Petra, and according to the owner there are also branches on Jalan Langgar and Jalan Seri Cemerlang. The brand has also opened a branch on Jalan Hiliran, Kuala Terengganu. Public listings show opening hours of around 4.30pm to midnight, and the shop is closed on Fridays.

The most important advice: come early. Key dishes like ikan bekok sell out fast, and by 10pm the choices are getting fewer. Dine-in and takeaway queues are separate, and parking is provided.